Years of civil war have taken their toll on Cambodia, and the lack of infrastructure as a result of this is immediately apparent. The good news is that, with a burgeoning tourist industry, foreign investment, and the input of hundreds of non-governmental organisations, things are looking up and moving around Cambodia is getting easier, and safer. Many of the country's roads, however, are still in a state of disrepair and river travel is often dictated by the weather.

Before embarking on any transport in Cambodia it is advisable to check any upcoming religious festivals or public holidays. These can affect transport with plenty of people on the move before and after holidays, and shortened timetables for their duration.

by Train
Gone are the days when it was free to sit in the front carriage of the train, taking your chance of being blown up when the train hit a landmine. Nowadays train travel is a lot safer, although painfully slow - by road to Sihanoukville from Phnom Penh takes around four hours whereas the train takes up to 13. In spite of this, more and more visitors are taking advantage of the incredibly cheap train fares, but mostly only for shorter distances.

by Car
The roads in the main cities are full of Westerners behind their 4-wheel drives, but these are NGO workers, not travellers.

For visitors, the only car hire possible in Cambodia is that which comes with a driver. These taxis are available for single journeys, or for hire by the day. Most fares are negotiable, but the going rate for a day's hire is between USD20 to USD30, dependent on bargaining skills. The official taxi rate from the capital's Pochentong airport to the city centre currently stands at USD7.

Many of the taxi drivers speak a decent level of English, and occasionally French. When you find one who is reliable and whose taxi is in good condition - keep him. A decent taxi driver is an invaluable asset to getting around, even in Phnom Penh where you have a better chance than elsewhere of getting around independently.

by Bus
Buses and coaches are the mainstay of the national public transport network. They range from super-modern vehicles to ones that by all rights should have been scrapped years ago. All are privately operated from local bus stations. You are advised to try to buy your ticket in person as far in advance of travel as possible. Budgeting on longer journeys is a false economy, buy the best class of seat you can on the most modern bus; as well as giving yourself a lot more comfortable a ride you're not taking a valuable space on a bus that might be the only one a local can afford.

by Air
The easiest way of getting around Cambodia, considering the state of the country's roads, is via internal flights. There are several domestic airlines, including Royal Phnom Penh Airways, Siem Reap Airways and newcomer President Airlines. Booking at least a couple of days ahead is advisable as flights can fill up quickly.

Airport taxes currently stand at USD6 for domestic flights and USD25 for international. This is often payable on departure, but may be included in ticket prices or (according to some reports) simply not asked for. Most international flights to Phnom Penh and Siem Reap arrive from Asian destinations such as Bangkok, Ho Chi Minh City, Hong Kong and Singapore.

by Boat
For many locals, travel on Cambodia's waterways is a way of life. For visitors, there are several options to take to the water but, as a foreigner, expect to pay more for your passage. One of the most popular routes is the fast boat from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap, which takes around five hours, depending on the season. If you take this route, it's not advised to sit outside during the trip - it's almost impossible to climb back inside once you're out there, which you might feel like doing as the water can get very rough and it's freezing cold. There are also fast boats to Kampong Cham, Kratie and Stung Treng from Phnom Penh, and between Siem Reap and other towns across the Tonle Sap Lake. The slower boat services are cheaper but are consequently overcrowded and are best avoided due to safety concerns.